As you might know, I lived in France for two years, in Lyon precisely.
I arrived in Lyon in September 2005...I had my little lectrice contract with the university of Lyon (signed by the president of the university himself !), my papers, my lill' appartment (it had taken me two entire months to find one, simply because I couldn't come up with a garant, but that's a whole different story...)...at any rate, that particular day I had the most wonderful intention of opening a bank account...a bank account...not a bank, mind you, that shouldn't be too hard I thought...but little did I know...
So, I happily walk up to the first bank - I shall call them Crédit Agrécool in order to protect their identity (ahem :-) - at any rate, I charge in, my papers in my brown teacher's bag, still hopeful and pretty convinced that this will only take a minute...The dragon-lady behind the counter frowns her forehead and her 'I-can't-be-bloody-bothered-to-be-friendly' attitude instantly turns into hostility as she glances at my papers...as requested, I had brought along my ID, my work contract, my lease, my last three (!) bank statements, my tax declaration and myself...the grim looking lady looks at my pile of papers, then back at me and barks "Where's your electricity bill?" "My...ermm...electricity bill?" I ask - my eyes probably look like saucers at that point..."Yes, your electricity bill. You cannot open a bank account without an electricity bill!" Her eye-brows have a close encounter with her hairline.
"Aha...ermm...why?" I wonder. "It's the law!" she barks. I go "aha...," while the size of my saucer-eyes keeps expanding. "Errrmmm...I don't have an electricity bill...ermmm...and...I'll never have one I guess...I have toutes charges comprises (which means that my monthly rent includes all extra charges)."
"Well, you can't open a bank account without an electricity bill!" The dragon-lady scrutinizes me from head to toe with a certain air of indignation. I go: "ermmm...well, what am I supposed to do in order to open a bank account?" "I don't know, I'm afraid I can't help you," the dominatrix-turned-bank-employee retorts impatiently.
It's time to leave and I crawl back to the street on my nipples, as I can't possibly feel any smaller - at least they're very good at making you feel like crap at Crédit Agrécool...
'Hope springs eternal' I think and I give it another shot...this time I pick the Banque Papulaire (again, I have slightly altered their name, ahem)...as I walk into the bank, I notice that people are queuing up in front of the counter on the left hand side, while the one on the right hand side is completely deserted. "What a bunch of idiots" I think to myself, and with a big fat grin on my face, I walk up to the deserted counter. Something is foul in the State of Denmark, though...that was far too easy...conveniences always come with a hook, now don't they?
At any rate, I walk up to the man behind the counter and I cheerfully express my desire to open a bank account. The man behind the deserted counter stares at me and mumbles something I don't understand. I repeat my request and he mumbles back at me. I'm German, so maybe it's my accent (I generally don't have one, but who knows)...I therefore repeat my request v-e-r-y s-l-o-o-o-w-l-y...while I bend over the counter in order to hear what he is mumbling...to my absolute horror I realize that I don't understand ONE bloody word...not a single one! At that point, I'm beginning to become mildly nervous as I wonder why I can't decipher his bloody accent. The man behind the counter keeps mumbling utterances that remind me of a Northern Hungarian sociolect - I could be wrong, but it sure doesn't sound like French. I'm starting to panic...is Ashton Kutcher going to waltz in - the very next minute, but wait, I'm not a celeb, so maybe not...my mind is racing...what the Hell is going on. While I'm desperately trying to analyse the status quo, my eyes meet a little sign that sits on the counter...it reads "Our deaf-mute employee M. Chablis (yup, I changed his name too) is happy to answer your questions!" (or something to that effect) - 'Aha...deaf-mute', I think while my mind is still trying to grasp the meaning of this vital piece of information, 'DEAF-MUTE!'...what the?!? Affirmative action is grand, but this is almost as smart as recruiting a blind bus driver.
'Alrighty' I think to myself, 'don't panic.'...but I already feel like in one of those weird dreams where you stand in front of a bunch of people without your clothes on. I contemplate escape - why don't I just run away :-) I mean, he probably hasn't understood my frickin' name anyway.
I force myself to stay...it isn't his fault that he is deaf and I don't want to hurt his feelings...I stay...and I write down (!) my request on a small piece of paper that I hand over to him. He mumbles something - but he fortunately realizes that I 'don't get him'...he therefore takes another piece of paper on which he notes his answer...we happily exchange lill' pieces of paper for some time...it actually feels like I'm back at school - exchanging secret messages with my girlfriends.
To cut a long story short...he managed to let me know that I need an electricity bill in order to open a bank account...yup...same shit, different bank!
I guess I went to every single bank in Lyon and only three (!) months later (after many-a sleepless nights and a nervous breakdown) I eventually got a bank account at BNP-Paris-Bac (yep...I changed their name - you guessed it!)...they accepted me sans electricity bill...maybe because the bank happened to be situated in the same street, opposite my appartment...
Sigh...vive la France!

The photos above were all taken in Lyon/France. The first one is a shot of a spiral staircase in one of the many 'Traboules', the 2nd one is a Renaissance court yard and the three pics below were taken during the 'fête des lumières' which takes place every year on the 8th of December. The whole city is illuminated...it's absolutely gorgeous!

14 comments:
First, I know photography is a passion for you so it's important that you know THE PHOTOS ARE BEAUTIFUL!! ;)
You've got a great eye (love the staircase). I see romance in the night shots.
Second, what in bloody hell was going on at those banks?! How can electricity included in the rent even be an option if they are such sticklers for having the damn bill necessary to open bank accounts?
I would have yanked out my hair going from bank to bank and getting the same refusal. How frustrating! I hate banking! I used to work for one...
You used to work for one...LOL!
You know...THAT'S the thing about France...it's a beautiful country, but burocracy just doesn't make any sense there :-)
The electricity bill 'proves' that you really live where you live, ahem...(the lease could be 'fake' you know...ahem :-)
T'wasn't fun back then, but now - in retrospect - it's a fucking hilarious story.
There is a book by an Englishman who lived in France for a year, it's called "One year in the Merde"...it's too funny, I almost peed myself!
Oh, and thanx for the compliment, I really appreciate it!
Strange...I had a bank account when I was a student in France in 1983...with Credit Lyonnais...I'm pretty sure the didn't ask me for an electricity bill! Could it be that they don't like foreign workers?
That was before 9/11...things have changed drastically since - even here in Europe.
It has to do with money laundring, yada yada yada...
But hey...in hindsight it's funny...back then it wasn't, but I laughed heartily while writing this :-)
Very amusing ... thank you. I love the photos you post. Photography is something I enjoy, too. These are especialy beautiful with the lights on the water. What kind of camera do you use?
xo Kai
Hi there Kai!
Nice to see you here again :-)
Well...I don't know if other people find this story amusing or entertaining, but I laughed out loud writing it...and seriously, the guy in the bank was REALLY deaf! It was like being trapped in a Monthy Python movie...it was so absurd that I had to fight like crazy in order to hold back my laughter, but it was roaring inside...:-)
Thanx for the compliment regarding my photos...photography is my greatest passion!
I have to say, I use a pretty banal Nikon Coolpix (5 Megapixels)...so nothing outstanding.
My brother is a pro and he has a gear that cost him 25 000 €...ahem...he plays in a different league.
I love it like nothing else though!
Where can I see your pics...will you post them on your blog? Do you know the website FLICKR...I am considering posting my pics there...you can see some fantastic stuff there...really amazing!
If you should ever be in France in December, I highly recommend the
'fête des lumières' - it's absolutely amazing and beautiful...I'll post some more pics of the 'fête des lumières' at some point.
I love Flickr and Photobucket, too. Have you seen TrekEarth.com? There's some good stuff.
I found your post very funny. Enjoyed it very much.
xo Kai
My friend is from Paris and still has her money in a bank there which nearly collapsed last weekend. I've listened to her on the phone with the banking folks back there and what a nightmare is all I can say. God Bless Wells Fargo :)
)
Hi Kai,
I don't know 'TrekEarth.com'...but I'll check it out.
Regarding my post...there is more to come, LOL...
Cultural/liguistic misunderstandings are just another VERY entertaining aspect of livind abroad :D
Hi Bernthis,
God...that sounds awful...opening a bank account was a MAJOR pain in the neck, but I wasn't going to lose my money.
And yes, French burocracy can be pretty nightmarish...I guess somebody from a "grand école" cooked it up (someone with zero pragmatism) and the workforce has to carry it out - no matter what.
PS: At the risk of sounding ignorant...what is Wells Fargo?
Wells Fargo is a U.S. bank.
Thanx :-)
AMAZING PHOTOS!!! Oh my god.
Second ;-) Wow. France isn't easy is it? Now, I'm about to make a risky statement :-P mind you; I am NOT saying that all French are the same. But generally, I find French people more difficult towards foreigners than any other people. I was in the US and they were asking about all the nationalities in Europe and how everyone saw eachother... and basically the conclusion was; French people don't talk to you if you're from another country, French people generally don't bother to try and speak any other language, French people are not really interested in any other people.
Again; not ALL French people. I know generalizations are very, very dangerous. But I mean generally. I've never encountered an unfriendly German person in my life (not that they're not out there, they just try harder to meet you halfway than the French).
So opening a bank account there sounds like living hell to me.
Hi there Nell :-)
What you said about the French...
"French people don't talk to you if you're from another country, French people generally don't bother to try and speak any other language, French people are not really interested in any other people."
I have to say that I agree with you...of course, not every Frenchman is an arrogant bastard, but never have I met SO MANY rude people than during my 2 years in Lyon, honestly.
I have the impression that French people are friendly when they have to be (fausse politesse), while they cannot be bothered to be friendly whenever they don't have to.
The dragon-lady was a mix of the very many rude, arrogant women that I met along the way...the secretaries of Lyon III being among the worst bitches...I was just a lectrice, not a professor...so what happened was that they bullied us (the lowest caste of the uni staff) because they had to crawl into the butts of the big-wigs (professors) 24/24 - who of course treated them like cattle...
You see what I mean...I call these people "cyclists" (crawlers)...like a cyclist, they tread on those underneath their 'pedals' whenever they bow their head down.
I made a very long post on Emma's blog, to Gingerblue...just about said topic...it is something I cannot bare...it makes my fricking bood boil!!!
But, again...your observation isn't unfair...I mean, they have a rep and I have to say, my 2 years in Lyon proved most of the existing (anti-French) prejudice right unfortunately...
Lyon on top of everything is a very non-welcoming city, a friend of mine who had perviously lived in Paris even said that Lyon was worse than Paris..go figure!
PS: Thanx so much for the compliment regarding my photos!
I am seriously contemplating doing an exposition...at the same time, I find the thought alone SO VERY pretentious...ahem...I don't know...I don't know if my pics are good enuf...so many people make wonderful photos these days, especially with that new technology...I donno...we'll see...
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